How to Clean Shiplap

Know what your shiplap is made of and finished with

Shiplap is a style of wall or ceiling cladding made of horizontal boards with a small gap or overlapping joint. Today it may be solid wood, plywood, MDF or even a plastic or composite product. It might be painted, stained, sealed or raw. The material and finish decide how much moisture it can take.

• Painted shiplap: Most common. Usually satin, eggshell or semi-gloss paint. Handle gently, as rubbing can dull flat paint.
• Stained or sealed wood: Tolerates a damp cloth but not soaking.
• Raw or reclaimed wood: Absorbs moisture easily. Use the least water you can.
• MDF or composite boards: Can swell if water gets into edges and gaps. Keep wiping very light.

Test any cleaner on a hidden spot first, such as behind furniture or near a baseboard.

What you need

• Vacuum with a soft brush attachment, or a dry microfiber duster
• Microfiber cloths
• Mild liquid dish soap and warm water
• A soft brush or old toothbrush for tight spots
• Baking soda (optional, for scuffs)
• A step stool or stable ladder for tall walls
• Drop cloth or old towels for the floor

Step-by-step cleaning

1. Dust and vacuum first. Work from top to bottom. Use the soft brush attachment along the boards and into the grooves so you clear cobwebs and dust before adding any liquid.
2. Mix a mild solution. A few drops of dish soap in warm water is a safe start. Some guides use diluted white vinegar; it can work on sealed surfaces, but it is acidic and may dull some finishes, so test first and avoid it on unsealed or stained wood unless you have checked.
3. Dampen and wring out the cloth until it is barely damp. Dripping water runs into the gaps and can stain or swell the boards.
4. Wipe along the length of the boards, in one direction, section by section. Working with the board direction avoids pushing dirt into the grooves.
5. Wipe again with a cloth dampened with plain water to remove soap residue.
6. Dry with a clean, dry microfiber cloth, especially in the grooves.

Work from the top of the wall downward so drips do not streak a section you already cleaned. The same top-to-bottom order is the backbone of a whole-house deep clean.

Cleaning the grooves and gaps

The grooves between boards are where dust gathers. Options:

• A vacuum with a narrow brush or crevice attachment.
• A soft brush or a stiff piece of card wrapped in a microfiber cloth, slid along the gap.
• A slightly damp cotton swab or an old toothbrush for sticky spots.

Avoid forcing tools deep into the gap. Gaps may expose the wall behind, and pushing wet cloth in can leave moisture behind.

Scuffs, fingerprints and grease

• Scuffs and fingerprints: A damp cloth with a pinch of baking soda, rubbed lightly, can help on sturdy painted surfaces. Then wipe off residue and dry. It is slightly abrasive, so use light pressure and test first, especially on glossy paint.
• Kitchen grease: Use a cloth with the mild soap solution and change cloths often. Strong degreasers can strip paint or finish, so choose carefully and test.
• Crayon or marker: Stubborn marks may need a product made for your paint type. Test hidden spots first. Sometimes touch-up paint is the simplest answer.

Mildew and damp rooms

Shiplap in bathrooms, laundry rooms or basements may develop mildew. Fix the moisture source first with ventilation or a dehumidifier. For light surface mildew on sealed or painted boards, wipe with the mild soap solution, then dry fully.

If growth is widespread, keeps returning, or the boards are soft or damp, the problem may be behind the wall. Consider a professional assessment.

Safety: chemicals, ladders, pets and children

• Never mix bleach, ammonia and vinegar. Bleach plus ammonia makes toxic vapors, and bleach plus vinegar releases chlorine gas. Do not combine these products, and avoid bleach on shiplap unless the product label and finish clearly allow it.
• Ventilate the room while cleaning, particularly in small spaces.
• Keep pets and children out of the room while you work and until the walls are dry. Keep buckets and bottles out of their reach, and do not leave wet floors from drips.
• Ladders: Use a stable stool or ladder on a flat surface, and avoid overreaching.
• Old paint: In older homes, painted boards might carry lead-based paint. Do not dry-scrub or sand it. Wet-wipe gently, and consult a professional if the paint is peeling.
• Dust: Wear a dust mask if you are sensitive and the boards are very dusty.

Cleaning vs repainting and small repairs

Some problems are better handled by repair than cleaning.

• Stains that do not lift: A stain-blocking primer and fresh paint may work better than repeated scrubbing.
• Small dents or holes: Typically filled with wood filler or spackle, sanded when dry and touched up. A larger hole in the backing wall is a repair project for a patch kit or professional.
• Painting between boards: A small brush or a paint edger can reach the gaps. Some people paint the wall behind the boards before installation so the gaps look uniform.

Pros and cons that affect upkeep

Pros: a textured, classic look; boards can be cleaned in sections; paint can refresh it.

Cons: the grooves collect dust; stains and cobwebs show in the gaps; and the texture makes cleaning slower than flat drywall. Kitchens and bathrooms may need more frequent attention.

For other wood types in your home, see our guides to cleaning a reclaimed wood table and cleaning teak indoor furniture.

How often to clean

• Every few weeks: Dust or vacuum the boards and grooves.
• Every few months: Wipe down with the mild soap solution.
• Kitchens and bathrooms: Wipe splashes and grease as they happen, and wash more often.

FAQ

Can I use a steam cleaner? Generally not recommended. Heat and moisture can damage finishes and seep into gaps.

Can I use vinegar and water? A diluted solution is common on sealed or painted boards, but test first. Never mix it with bleach.

What if the paint comes off while I clean? Stop, let it dry and consider touch-up paint. Use less moisture and pressure next time.